Paris 1999
In my travels, I always carry a small notebook or, more recently, a PDA to record images and snippets I can later incorporate into my books.. These are a few of my notes.
Paris 1999
Les Halles, mid October, early morning. The prelude of winter is upon us, it’s cold. A sharp blow adds zest to the steps of pedestrians; they huddle in crumpled coats, hurriedly rescued from their summer slumber. The wind carries a whiff of mothballs mixed with Chanel 5 or Rive Gauche. A pretty, young lady–white socks, plaited skirt and a ponytail–counts bills under a lamplight by a street corner, she looks tired and her eyes are red-rimmed, perhaps she has a cold. A gentleman draws level with her, a firm grip on her hand. He looks angry. She nods and hands him the money. I catch a glimpse of a white collar over a gray shirt. It must be my imagination.
The bar interior is warm and a little stuffy. There’s a certain morbid pleasure gained from sipping a piping hot noisette, smoking a cigarette and watching the early-morning world go by.
Outside, on the terrace, two men have just arrived. They look brutish; spiteful eyes, broken noses and hands with the telltale matted pads of callused skin. Each hauls a carrier bag, perhaps full of drugs or brass knuckles or the piece and ski masks. They look around. They could be casing the joint; perhaps they’re on the run from the heat or rival gangs. They sit down, backs to the wall, they shift, something is not quite right.
Unexpectedly, they stand up and change tables, perhaps looking for a more strategic point, a position easier to defend. I look under the awning and reconsider; maybe they’re seeking the warmth of the overhead butane heaters.
The garçon takes their order and frowns; he’s also noticed something funny, I’m sure.
After a couple of minutes he delivers two au lait, eyeing the two men with suspicion. He glances at the bags, collects the coins and dashes inside without a word. I’m tempted to leave my half-finished coffee and break into a run.
The strangers exchange glances and I tense, perhaps it’s a signal because both bend over and rummage inside the bags. I hold my breath, faint with foreboding. I sense that something momentous is about to happen. Here am I, unprotected, a scant couple of meters from the bandits. I expect their hands to reappear with guns. I look around. There are no banks nearby and I doubt that the bar’s till will hold much; after all, they’ve only been open for an hour.
I’ll be damned! They have produced plastic boxes and now that the waiter is not looking, they draw croissants–much cheaper if bought from the next-door boulangerie–and dunk them in their coffees.
I feel stupid, ashamed, but the worse is yet to come.
A sparrow lands on the table; it must be ravenous because the shy birds seldom beg at close quarters. The presumed criminals busy themselves over the next five minutes crafting small balls with the soft inner dough and patiently feed the bird.
I finish the noissette as I consider that life–and the passage of time–is most unfair. Things have changed and nothing remains true to form. Criminals, hookers, and even priests don’t act as expected anymore.
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